Cari Amici,

Wherever this letter finds you, I hope you’re keeping well, whether with an espresso in hand or an Americano. Either way, I’m happy you’re here!

Welcome to the first edition of my Roman observations, where I take note of the different things I see in the city and share them with you. Rome fluctuates between cold and warm these days, typical spring behaviour. Most days, the skies are clear, but some are overcast, and now and then, the rain pours.

In my search for a future in Florence three years ago, I came across these words from a blog:

“There’s a place in Italy that will match your hopes, dreams and ambitions.”

I laugh at this now, knowing what I know, but in 2022, I probably would have read those words over and over, obsessing, waiting until they became my lived reality.

Whenever a friend sends me a message, almost always, I read the same two words:

“How’s Rome?”

Where and how do I even begin?

As I wrote previously, I am settling in and learning more about the city each day. I still can’t package these experiences in words as they happen, and although they are ephemeral, I reflect on them, capturing them through these anecdotes

I have been listening to this song since December. The words had always been there, waiting. But as I walked to school last Wednesday, it suddenly clicked and I connected them to my stay here.

You are my place, where I want to stay. I’ve flickered between liking Rome and not, mainly because it still feels foreign. There are moments when I adore it and all the infinite possibilities it holds for me. And, of course, there are days when I long for what’s familiar. My little car, driving myself instead of asking for a passaggio. My yellow room which is both my museum and my sanctuary. Above all, my friends and family, who I can call and spend time with on a whim.

I know that’s a long-winded introduction, but here are two of my observations. Someone, who's also a foreigner in this city, told me, “You can spend a lifetime in Rome.” So here is my attempt to observe it as an outsider.

Beauty and Chaos, Colliding

You may have noticed that I describe Rome as this in my writings. It’s exactly that in churches. The Eternal City is a dance of contradictions, a collision of beauty and chaos. On the one hand, I revel in what I see in churches and who is inside: Jesus in the Tabernacle. On the other, I get distracted by the endless movement around me. Whenever I step into a church, there are always people shuffling through, snapping photos, capturing what can never be fully held. It’s disorienting because a place meant for quiet reverence often becomes just another stop on a tourist’s itinerary.

And yet, I can’t help but marvel at the brilliance of the architecture. I often think, how on earth did people before the 20th century build massive and intricate churches? Their ingenuity is undeniable. The structure itself evokes a sense of profound awe, reminding me that beauty, in its truest form, is transcendental.

Madness of Driving

Well, anywhere I go here, it’s a given. Maybe I am exaggerating, but in major cities, this has been proven true. Each time I cross the street, I often think, Italian driving will be my undoing. Well, I mean, I hope not. Traffic lights? Just suggestions. Sirens blast and Vespas weave through impossibly tight gaps. I am guilty of this disregard myself; I cross even before seeing the green sign. Pedestrian crossings mean nothing unless you walk with absolute confidence or reckless abandon. I told all the people who’ve given me rides here the same thing: I would not even dare drive here. Ever. Nunca, nunca, nunca! Never, never, never!

Someone told me this week that Rome is full of contradictions as I mentioned above and I can’t stop thinking about it. In many ways, it’s exactly what I’m experiencing here. The beauty and the chaos. The sacred and the spectacle. The familiar and the unknown. This city demands that I embrace two extremes simultaneously, never fully settling into either. It’s in this tension where life reveals itself, where growth happens, challenges come and I discover not just Rome, but myself.

Have you ever been in a place that challenged you to accept two different realities at once? I’d love to hear about it! Rome keeps revealing itself to me and I can’t wait to share what I uncover next! There’s always more to share!

May you find beauty in the chaos too! Until next time,

Con amore,

Genicia Victoria

P.S. If you enjoyed reading this letter and want to follow my journey more closely, consider becoming a paid subscriber, I’d be so grateful! Your support helps keep these observations coming, and I’d love to have you along. In my next post, I'll be sharing my experience at the Vatican Museums!